Il calendario Pirelli è avanti da sempre, cavalca le epoche e non perde un colpo, ogni anno l’iconico calendario stupisce e affascina perché gioca d’anticipo, precorrere i tempi, va in controtendenza se necessario. Un appuntamento che dagli anni ‘60 registra attraverso l’obiettivo gli atteggiamenti culturali dei tempi e rappresenta in fatto di costume un esempio da seguire. Cinquant’anni di glamour e sofisticati shooting fotografici, da qualche stagione ha iniziato un nuovo percorso, con immagini di femminilità non più per forza perfetta e svestita. L’edizione 2017 è stata affidata al fotografo Peter Lindbergh, «l’inventore» delle super top model, dei super corpi Anni 90. Tempi passati. Adesso spiega così le nuove tendenze estetiche: «Verità». «Empatia». «Voglio liberare le donne dal terrore della giovinezza e della perfezione».
Per “The Cal 2017” allora niente top model, ma attrici di Hollywood, scelte senza badare a età e a forme. «Ho voluto donne con cui dialogare, che trasmettessero qualcosa, dagli occhi, dalla testa», dice Lindbergh. Per lui uno stuolo di dive: «Nicole Kidman, Julianne Moore, Uma Thurman, Robin Wright, Jessica Chastain, Penelope Cruz, Charlotte Rampling, Helen Mirren, Kate Winslet, Léa Seydoux, Lupita Nyong’o, Alicia Vikander. Con questo calendario voglio parlare della percezione della bellezza, far capire come sia un insulto per le donne dover guardare sulle riviste foto perfette, modelli irraggiungibili. Usarle come “basi”, trasformare il corpo come fosse un oggetto», spiega ancora il fotografo, che è al suo terzo calendario.
Lui tra i primi a denunciare l’abuso di photoshop nel mondo della moda. «I ritocchi sono un crimine», ribadisce. «Voglio mostrare cosa è la bellezza, non quella commerciale che serve per vendere qualche prodotto. Perché tutto quello che noi crediamo sia bellezza è in realtà è una cosa creata da persone che hanno interessi, che ti dicono: se vuoi diventare così devi comprare questo. Cancellano la storia di una persona per vendere una crema». The Cal 2017 sarà un calendario «sulla sensibilità, sull’emozione, non certo sui corpi perfetti». Piacerà agli uomini? Lindbergh alza le spalle: «La maggior parte degli uomini a volte sono dei grandi bambini».
«Con tutte le attrici del calendario ho lavorato molte volte, non sono amiche ma siamo vicini perché l’idea del casting era quella di avere donne che si lasciassero andare completamente, si abbandonassero, che mi permettessero di arrivare molto vicino alla loro intimità. Sono tutte bellissime e molto vulnerabili».
Peter Lindbergh parla anche dei social: «Instagram è un grande strumento ma è rovinato dai selfie, manifestazioni stupide di puro egocentrismo. E non mi piace che i fotografi spesso subiscano pressioni per assumere modelle con tanti followers». E ancora sulle super top model: «Hanno preso vita negli Anni ’90 contro l’immagine della donna di quei tempi. Erano pura bellezza senza ornamenti. Poi l’autenticità si è persa perché hanno vinto ancora le grandi corporazioni, le top sono state usate per fini commerciali, e sono finite».
Dall’obiettivo di Lindbergh dunque una nuova percezione della bellezza femminile: «The Cal 2017 non è un calendario che spoglia il corpo delle donne ma la loro anima. È più nudo del nudo».




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